Day Four: All Quiet on the Western Front

It is Monday, late in the evening, and one by one our weary travellers are breaking off and heading to their bunks. After what we have witnessed the past few days, those beds should probably be rough
wooden pallets in damp caverns . . . Umm, maybe next trip. We arrived at the Marriott Resort after dark, but it does not appear to bear much resemblance to the tunnels of Vimy or Arras. Each of our rooms in our town house has a slightly more than basic latrine attached, and if we decide Paris is not our glass of wine, we can come home to cocktail making class or Samba lessons! 😁

What a day. I am not sure how we will turn our heads and hearts from the early 20th century and the tragedy and drama of the Western Front battles to the reality of modern day Paris. It may take a day of grounding by the Seine to switch those gears. We are so fortunate to have five days ahead to properly absorb the experience.

In the meantime (meaning the few lucid moments I have left before I hit my bed), a brief recap of today:

Vimy, take two. . . Spectacular on our first night, Vimy did not disappoint in daylight. We toured the tunnels and trenches used on April 9, 1917 with Chloe, a Canadian guide on her second tour in France. The site is abuzz with preparations for the 100 year anniversary next month, and the opening of the new interpretive centre. The first photos below are of the tress planted to help preserve the
battlefield and of the trenches and tunnels the Commenwealth soldiers dug - within 30 metres of the Germans' similar system! I have no words to express what it feels like to be simultaneously so sad, proud, and grateful when you stand on and under that sacred soil.
Following the tour of the lower ground we made our way back to the ridge and the memorial, which seemed even more imposing today. It is almost ethereal in colour, a monolith of stones from a mine in Croatia that has since been abandoned and has to be reopened each time repair is needed at Vimy.

Early spring, but already beautiful green. 

The trenches have eroded from their original six foot depth. 

The pillar on the left represenets Canada, and the right, France. 

This is the "mother"who watches over Vimy Ridge. Her sorrow-filled eyes say everything you feel there. 

Three Sheridans pay homage to another. 

From Vimy we began our journey south and headed to Beaumont Hamel, where the Newfoundland Regiment, who gave the ultimate gift to the freedom fight in the amount of 86% of their men on July 1, 1916, are honoured with a memorial that is truly magnificent and appropriate. A bronzed and
beautiful caribou stag keeps watch over the battlefield, and I swear we could hear his mournful call in the chilling wind. Our guide was Jeannette, a nursing student from Winnipeg, and we were impressed by her passion for the soldiers and their stories. I had to shake my head as I walked through No Man's Land and passed by the Danger Tree. Last summer we read about this tragic and devastating battle in The Rooms in St John's, never imagining we would be standing on the ground where those proud Newfoundland men died.

St. John's Road - dug by the Newfound boys.

The Danger Tree- very few advanced past it during the battle.

Francis Lint, whose published letters home to Newfoundland kept everyone there informed, until he fell on July 1st. 

As informed as our guides of the past few days have been, none can come close to our in-house military history expert. Sandy has been called to duty by our endless questions, filling in details, clarifying misconceptions, adding colour to commentary. It is important that he get a huge thank you as his knowledge and insights have added rich context to our experience!

They say France is for lovers. Seriously, get a room!!

By 5:00 pm we were back on the A1, heading to Bailly Romainvilliers for phase two. Maxine led us through the heavy traffic outside Paris - with just a little help from Wes!! Tomorrow we storm the gates of Paris. . . well, we will take the train, but with gusto!

Love to all. Cailin, put on your sunscreen!
xo